{"id":4218,"date":"2023-11-21T21:51:13","date_gmt":"2023-11-21T14:51:13","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/arcadiaconsult.com.vn\/?p=4218"},"modified":"2024-01-23T11:23:40","modified_gmt":"2024-01-23T04:23:40","slug":"where-to-eat-in-kuala-lumpur-the-asian-capital-famed-for-its-contrasting-culinary-legacies","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/arcadiaconsult.com.vn\/en\/where-to-eat-in-kuala-lumpur-the-asian-capital-famed-for-its-contrasting-culinary-legacies\/","title":{"rendered":"WHERE TO EAT IN KUALA LUMPUR – THE ASIAN CAPITAL FAMED FOR ITS CONTRASTING CULINARY LEGACIES"},"content":{"rendered":"
I\u2019m sitting with Leonard Tee at a marble-top table in the dining hall of Warong Old China. The Malaysian Chinese restaurant owner has been in business in Kuala Lumpur for 20 years, and this Chinatown address is the newest of his three venues. I ask a question that elicits a long pause for consideration: what dish best symbolises multicultural Malaysia? Tee finally speaks: \u201cThe quintessential Malaysian dish is nasi lemak because there\u2019s a Malay, Chinese and Indian version.\u201d<\/span><\/div>\n
He may be right \u2014 this concoction of coconut-flavoured rice, crunchy ikan bilis (the local version of fried anchovies), raw cucumber, roasted peanuts and spicy sambal (chilli sauce) is a convenient choice to summarise, in a few spoonfuls, one of the world\u2019s most complex multi-ethnic societies. In fact, Malaysia\u2019s first astronaut, Dr Sheikh Muszaphar Shukor, even took nasi lemak with him to outer space when he took flight in 2007.<\/span><\/div>\n
Close to KL Sentral, the city\u2019s main transport hub, Chinatown is the most accessible place to begin my mission of mapping the food scene in Malaysia\u2019s gargantuan, multifaith capital. Fondly called \u2018KL\u2019 by locals, it\u2019s a labyrinth of pre-independence colonial buildings, Sino-Portuguese shophouses, coils of modern highways and some of the world\u2019s tallest towers \u2014 an architectural mix as complex as Malaysian cuisine. This country\u2019s menu of fiery curries, fried rice and noodles, piquant soups, tandoori-roasted meats and a broad rainbow of spices reflects a long history of immigration, cross-pollination and a fusion of influences ranging from the Indonesian archipelago to Arabia, India and China.<\/span><\/div>\n
I feel this heavy cultural cargo behind the simple rice dish I dig into at Warong Old China. The nasi lemak here is a Peranakan version, hailing from the unique ethnic and cultural mix of Straits Chinese and Malay\/Indonesian people found only in Malaysia and Singapore. The rice\u2019s sweet aroma and glutinous texture enriched by coconut milk is a perfect base for this spicy and crunchy concoction \u2014 the deep-fried chicken thigh that comes with it crackles satisfyingly as I sink my teeth in.\u00a0<\/span><\/div>\n
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\"Arcadia
Kuala Lumpur menu of fiery curries, fried rice and noodles, piquant soups, tandoori-roasted meats and a broad rainbow of spices reflects a long history of immigration, cross-pollination and a fusion of influences ranging from the Indonesian archipelago to Arabia, India and ChinaThings get more creative than a mere marriage of rice, coconut and chicken, however. Next, Tee brings out Melaka-style laksa, a tangy noodle soup tempered by abundant coconut milk, and a refreshing pomelo salad \u2014 a citrus-meets-greens match made in heaven. His buah keluak, fried rice served on a banana leaf with a side of chicken breast and a snap-crisp prawn cracker, is blackened with sambal \u2014 Malaysia\u2019s ubiquitous umami-rich chilli sauce \u2014 mixed with the pulp of the kepayang tree fruit. The resulting scent, believe it or not, is reminiscent of European truffles.<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
\u201cWe have much more than nasi lemak,\u201d says Andrew Wong, one of the owners of Malaysian heritage restaurant Open House. \u201cMalay cuisine is so complex. For example, some of its ingredients, like wild herbs, are foraged from the forest, and then there\u2019s the time it takes to prepare and process them into dishes. There\u2019s so much work behind it that it becomes a high-dining experience.\u201d Open House will soon relaunch in a new form and location in Jalan Stonor, close to the city\u2019s iconic 1,483ft Petronas Towers. It will host a dedicated ulam herb garden curated by Malaysia\u2019s UKM university and Gombak\u2019s Jungle School \u2014 a group that empowers some of the Malaysian Peninsula\u2019s oldest Indigenous people.\u00a0<\/div>\n
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Wong is on a quest to rediscover Malay food via recipes he obtained from the Jabatan Warisan Negara (National Heritage Board) and first-hand knowledge sourced by his chefs from their villages across the country. We meet at his Michelin-listed second restaurant, Dusun, which opened in 2022 on the corner of the Bangsar Shopping Centre, in one of KL\u2019s central dining and entertainment districts.<\/div>\n
The starter plate of crunchy keropok (deep-fried crackers) with seven different sambals is top-notch. I find a particular soft spot for tempoyak, a gooey, creamy variety of the condiment made from fermented durian fruit, which feels like fizzy, tropical butter on my tongue. It perfectly introduces a menu tailored to emphasise the region\u2019s unique flavours. The asam pedas, for example, is made with salmon rather than frequently used stingray because Wong believes \u201cit\u2019s a more suitable fish to absorb the curry\u2019s tangy, sweet-sour taste\u201d.\u00a0<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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The more I eat, the more I realise that experimenting with Malaysian traditions is the core value of KL\u2019s contemporary gastronomic identity. At Lucky Bo, another noteworthy Bangsar restaurant, I meet owner Edward Soo, who describes his establishment as a \u2018Malaysian steakhouse\u2019. Soo has chosen to use prime Australian tomahawk rib-eye beef steak but in dishes adapted for local tastes. \u201cIt kind of happened by chance and because of customer feedback,\u201d says Soo. He used the fattier parts to cook char kway teow \u2014 a much-loved local flat rice noodle dish \u2014 and found a pefect combination. \u201cNow I have people coming in and asking just for that, but I\u2019m afraid it only comes with the whole steak.\u201d<\/div>\n
I find further inventive dishes back in Chinatown, where restaurateur Cynthia Rodrigo offers plant-based dishes at two of the city\u2019s hippest vegan venues, the Hungry Tapir and LaGula, which she opened with her son and daughter, Tristan and Makissa Smeeton. Here, I munch on spicy tempeh fingers, vegan tortilla and a plate of satay made with marinated hedgehog mushrooms \u2014 the latter being a nice change from the usual Malaysian meat skewers.<\/div>\n
Gastronomic innovation isn\u2019t only in taking place in the centre of KL, however. The sprawling suburbs also host a multitude of offbeat culinary venues. In fact, when Michelin published its first guide to Kuala Lumpur and Penang in late 2022, its 97 choices, most of which were central and more upmarket, spurred much criticism from locals who felt their neighbourhoods offered the best eats.\u00a0<\/div>\n
SS15, in the southwestern township of Subang Jaya, is among the city\u2019s most accessible under-the-radar food areas, just a half-hour train ride from Chinatown\u2019s Pasar Seni. The high-rises thin out the further the train gets from the centre, and the first thing I spot when I get off at the station is a food court in a little strip mall. It\u2019s there I find Big Family Restaurant. Bustling with diners, the restaurant\u2019s lunch crowd slurp a vast range of noodle dishes that includes flat and wide pan mee, Ipoh chee cheong fun rice noodle rolls in curry or mushroom sauce and tangy asam laksa, a classic noodle soup.\u00a0<\/div>\n
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A block away is locally loved Indian restaurant Rojak SS15. Despite the name (rojak is a spicy fruit salad), the place is known for pasembur (a salad of cucumber, potatoes, beancurd and seafood). I also order a freshly fried vadai, a quintessential South Asian savoury spiced fritter, which leaves hot oil on my fingers. This is followed by a cooling dessert of ais kacang (shaved ice, syrup and ice cream), and cendol (green jelly with coconut milk and palm sugar syrup).\u00a0<\/div>\n
As I reach the middle of SS15\u2019s grid of streets, I stumble upon the fresh produce market, and there, I see it again. Sitting behind the glass front of a stall, metallic trays are filled with ingredients that make up the dish that binds a nation \u2014 nasi lemak. It\u2019s being served at Gerai Opah, a simple shop in a corner of the market. I order, sit at a wooden table and dig in. The sambal\u2019s so spicy it makes my eyes and nose run, but I can\u2019t stop eating the rice, crackling with anchovies and peanuts.<\/div>\n
The Malay owner, Raba\u2019adiah Binti Md Hasan, says the secret to her fiery sauce is to simmer it for four hours, using dried chilies instead of paste. On most days, she starts work at 4am so her special sauce is ready by breakfast. Regardless of how high- or low-brow the food establishment, the secret of KL\u2019s culinary success becomes apparent as I down the last spoonful through blurry eyes. \u201cIt\u2019s all about hard work,\u201d says Raba\u2019adiah, \u201cBut when I see my customers satisfied after a meal, it\u2019s the greatest satisfaction.\u201d<\/div>\n
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Where to eat in Kuala Lumpur<\/h2>\n

CWZJ Cuisine, Kuchai Lama<\/h3>\n
Here, Cantonese dishes pair with vintage Chinese teas, all served by owner Joseph Ang. Try sliced barbecue pork cheek, fresh-from-the-tank seafood or deep-fried spring chicken with a side of Sichuan-style braised eggplant, served sizzling inside a rock pot. RM350 (\u00a360) for three courses, including beer. 8, Jalan Kuchai Maju10, (11\/116B), Kuchai Entrepreneurs Park, Jalan Kuchai Lama.<\/div>\n

Singh Chapati House, Brickfields<\/h3>\n
Just behind KL Sentral, in the heart of Little India, this simple Punjabi outfit is a favourite for its buttery, authentic dals, tandoori-grilled meats, crisp naan bread and oven rotis, which are particularly popular with the local Indian and South Asian communities. Try the thick and creamy dal makhani to reevaluate the power of slow-simmered lentils. RM50 (\u00a310) for three courses; no alcohol.<\/div>\n

Bijan, Bukit Bintang<\/h3>\n
This house tucked at one end of Changkat Bukit Bintang, the city\u2019s prime nightlife strip, serves a world of masterfully executed Malay dishes. For 20 years, Chinese owner Bijan has served a menu of pan-Malaysian food in a cosy, homely environment. Try melt-in-the-mouth beef opor stew, prawns with caramelised coconut and wild fern, or cooked in tempoyak (fermented durian sambal). RM350 (\u00a350) for three courses, including wine.\u00a0<\/div>\n

The Curiousity Iron River, Pudu<\/h3>\n
Part cocktail bar, part artists\u2019 and musicians\u2019 hangout, this hidden joint in a shophouse has a lively arts space and garden. And the menu is above the usual bar food. The Malaysia Boleh pizza is a unique fusion of seafood, sambal and petai (local \u2018stink beans\u2019), while the lamb shanks, pork ribs and spiced pork belly are on a par with those served at some of KL\u2019s best steakhouses. RM350 (\u00a350) for three courses, including cocktails.\u00a0<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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I\u2019m sitting with Leonard Tee at a marble-top table in the dining hall of Warong Old China. The Malaysian Chinese restaurant owner has been in business in Kuala Lumpur for 20 years, and this Chinatown address is the newest of his three venues. I ask a question that elicits a long pause for consideration: what…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":4223,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[93],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4218","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-news"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/arcadiaconsult.com.vn\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4218","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/arcadiaconsult.com.vn\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/arcadiaconsult.com.vn\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/arcadiaconsult.com.vn\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/5"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/arcadiaconsult.com.vn\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=4218"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/arcadiaconsult.com.vn\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4218\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/arcadiaconsult.com.vn\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/4223"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/arcadiaconsult.com.vn\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=4218"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/arcadiaconsult.com.vn\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=4218"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/arcadiaconsult.com.vn\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=4218"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}